Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Friday, April 29, 2005
  My Day...
First thing is to check email. Pastor's wife wrote to ask if I could share my testimony at the Mother-Daughter banquet. Nevermind that I have no daughters! She said they already "sponsored" me so I don't have to pay. But I think we will be in Anaheim then, I sure HOPE SO. I was literally getting that knot in my stomach and writhing around, moaning no no no. Just the thought of having to stand up in front of people and speak... makes me shudder.
Hubby didn't think spending his day off watching me read blogs was gonna be fun so he said let's go surfing. YES! I can try out my new bikini : )
We get there and it's overcast. He insists I go first and it takes 5 minutes just to get my toes wet. I'm standing there, complaining to myself "it's so cold, it's SO cold!" and a couple of tourists hear me and say "THIS is cold??? You don't know what cold is. Try surfing San Francisco!" Time to buck up and get in....slowly. I decide to at least catch a few waves then come in and warm up.
There were only three of us on this break, and as soon as I get there, a big wave came and the two other guys catch it. I was left. Alone. Way outside. In murky water. (Cue the Jaws music now) Nevermind the dork factor, I laid down straight on my board. I don't mind dangling my feet in when there's more of us, I figure that the men make for meatier, tastier meals than I, and sharks would know the difference, wouldn't they?
Anyhow, this is how it always is after a long time of not surfing, I just have to get back into the groove. And my first wave is a guarantee bust. I WILL fall on the first one. It's just my ritual. And I did. And I forgot that while getting ready at home, I had found money on the counter from yesterday and stuffed it into my bikini top for food money for today, because I had no pockets. Well, some lucky turtle out there is 9 dollars richer, I forgot to take the money out and it fell out : (
Well then this guy comes paddling over from the other break, and we were already talking about him because he's doing something that's becoming all the rage now, it's called Stand-up surfing. Umm, as opposed to what? Aren't we doing stand-up surfing too? I said, you gotta get a new name for this sport! So, we're talking and he asks me if I want to try it. DO I!!!! We traded boards. Basically, you have a large tandem board and a very long paddle You stand up the entire time. Not in a surfing stance, your feet are side-by-side on the board and you have to keep your balance and paddle into waves and catch them. It's SO FUN. And much harder than it looks. But the guy was impressed, he said people usually take a whole day just getting the balancing part of it. That people usually just keep falling and never get around to catching waves. Well, then I'm hooked! Catching waves was REALLY hard, because it would come and knock me off my feet. Two hours later...I realized hubby might not be so happy with me because he's got the babies on the beach, he still hasn't had his turn to surf, and he only had one hour left until time for his basketball games...I just kept saying "just one more then I will go in..." THAT'S when you know you are having fun, when you just can't come in!
He had his revenge, he left us there while he drove to Olowalu to surf. And HE took two hours too! But the babies were having fun so good thing. Isaiah kept collecting rocks and moving them from here to there. It was really funny. Elijah, he just liked to play in the water the entire time. We had a loaf of bread and fed the fish and the birds, which the babies found hilarious.
Now I have to rinse off and get the boys from the bus stop, then get Noa to Taekwondo. We have SIX days left till we leave for the tournament!
And so what if I tell you we're going on vacation, for all you would-be thieves out there...we have a pit bull, some big Hawaiians in the house behind us, and nothing to steal ANYWAY.
: )
 
Comments:
Haha, you should hear tourists' comments when they see local kids swimming at the beach here! It's the exact opposite. "What are they doing in that freezing cold water?!" It's funny.
 
i wish i was a cool surfer too. xok8
 
Kerri--haha! Yeah, that is true, the water MUST be REALLY cold there--I don't think I would go in...bok bok bok *chicken*
Mountain Mama-- thanks : )
K8--you ARE a cool (internet) surfer!! Tee hee!
 
I wish I could surf too but I don't have the best balance, and I'm afraid of the ocean. LOL. It's walking along the shore collecting shells for me!
 
Tee--when you get here...and you WILL (how can you NOT come and meet your internet twin??) I'll take you out and you'll get over it and have a blast...okay!!!!
 
LOL - I've body boarded before. Does that count? ;)

The last time I did that I had the leash on my ankle and when a wave knocked me down I went under the board. The surf was pushing the board on top of me and I couldn't get out from under it - hence the traumatization. LOL.
 
Post a Comment

<< Home
||  Contact  ||  Home  ||

My Photo
Name:
Location: United States
.
Image hosted by Photobucket.com
January 2005 / February 2005 / March 2005 / April 2005 / May 2005 / June 2005 / July 2005 / August 2005 / September 2005 / October 2005 / November 2005 / December 2005 / January 2006 / February 2006 / March 2006 / April 2006 / May 2006 / June 2006 / July 2006 / August 2006 / September 2006 / October 2006 / November 2006 / December 2006 / January 2007 / February 2007 / March 2007 / April 2007 / May 2007 / June 2007 / July 2007 / August 2007 / September 2007 / October 2007 / November 2007 / December 2007 / February 2008 / April 2008 / May 2008 / July 2008 / August 2008 / September 2008 / November 2008 / December 2008 / July 2010 /

Image hosted by Photobucket.com Blogroll Me!

« # SAHM Bloggers ? »

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Powered by Blogger



Image hosted by Photobucket.com